Chiang Rai, Chiang Kawng,
Lamphun, Nan
From the top of Nangle an excellent
view is obtained of the surrounding country; but to clear it was
a heavy task, as the top was broad and flat, and the trees were
large. Two of them I left as signal trees, and then descended
to Chieng Rai and connected Dawi Tat Tawng (hill with golden pagoda).
Chieng Rai is a walled city
and claims to be very old. The old Governor is very ill, and
the town is much neglected, being overgrown with jungle. We have
had a lot of trouble from this place, as they would not give a
man to assist, nor even sell rice, laying down that the tops of
the hills should not be cleared of trees.
Before I stop the work for the
season there is one more high mountain I must ascend. Leaving
Chieng Rai the next day, after crossing the pass which is so low
that one scarcely perceives it, I encamp at Ban Mechan, from which
place Dawi Tung is seen distincly. This is the name given to
a mass of mountain, from a pagoda built on the peak overlooking
a perpendicular limestone precipice, and which is a place of annual
pilgrimage for the Shans from the surrounding country. The highest
point of the range is known as Changmup, which we are about to
attempt. I push on through the Shan village of Ban Buelai and
encamp at the foot of the hill is a metal image about eighteen
inches high, said to be that of a king who became a hermit. There
is one thing to be said, he could not have selected a healthier
place for a hermitage. Out of the range of malaria, among oak-trees,
with an excellent view over the Chieng Senn plain and the massive
mountains beyond. Hair twisted in a knot upright. The carving
at the pedestal are the travelling accompaniments, of a tea-pot,
spitoon, basket as used by the Mussurs on thier backs, baskets
as slung on the shoulders, cooking-pot, in taking up quarters
in a comfortable house. I have been through a lot of trouble,
in which I could not have had better assistance than that given
me by Phra Sarisdi.
The triangulation round Siam was
started with great difficulty, but still a start has been made.
To prevent delays in taking the field I resolve on remaining
in Chieng Senn for the rainy season.
After seeing my things in the
house, I go off to complete some work on a small hill south, about
two miles away. While taking a round of angles, I am horrified
to see my quarters in flames. Nothing can be done, so I finish
my work, and then descend to find my place burnt to the ground.
Most of the things were saved, but Phra Sarisdi lost everything
except the clothes he had on. This was a terrible position for
him to be in after a severe season's work; however, worse was
yet to happen.
Nai Tat, brother to Phra Sarisdi,
had started for M. Sing, selecting his own route. He had not
been gone six days, when Phra Sarisdi came and woke me up at twelve
o'clock at night to communicate the horrible news of the cowardly
murder of his brother. The poor lad was the quietest of all the
Siamese I had ever known, and it was impossible that he could
have given any reason for this cowardly outrage. It came upon
him quite suddenly. There was not the slightest indication of
any trouble before-hand, and he had been twice before to the place
where he was murdered. I make arrengements to go to Hawng Luk
to make inquiries. The chief officials of the guard-stations
met me on the way and begged that I would not go to Hawng Luk,
as there was a plot to murder me as well, and my steps had been
dogged for the last month by assassins.
I had ten men from Chieng Senn
with rusty flint-locks, and the poor fellows would have proved
themselves handy enough, but it was more than likely that would
only add to the complications, so I returned to Chieng Senn to
devise means of bringing these cowardly ruffians to justice.
Nai Tat was no novice at jungle-travelling
Years ago he accompanied the French officers when they were travelling
over Chieng Kawng, Luang Phrabang, and Hua Punn Ha Tang Hok, with
every assistance from the Siamese Government , and when they were
hatching and plotting the ruin of Siam.
He was provided with sufficient
money for the purchase of provisions and for the hiring of guides.
He passed through Hawng Luk, a general rendezvous of a great
number of dacoits from the Salwin, and encamped beyond M. Ko,
the Governor of which place was a Kerrn. This is almost a sufficient
guarantee of the man's goodness. Nai Tat saw about thirty men,
among whom he recognized some as from Hawng Luk, pass in the moonlight
the evening before the murder.
Continued
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