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More on An Englishman's Siamese Journals:

  • Beginning of the journey from Bangkok

  • Upon reaching Kam Peng Pet

  • Chiang Mai

  • Chiang Dao

  • Chiang Senn

  • Chiang Rai, Chiang Kawng, Lamphun, Nan

  • Back to Chieng Mai

  • Leaving Chieng Mai and passing-by hilltribe villages

  • The Lamets, the Lamungs and more hilltribe villages

  • At the Luang Phrabang boundary

  • The Haws

  • Siamese fight against the Haws

  • The continuing struggle against the Haws

  • Staying in Luang Prabang

  • Leaving Luang Prabang

  • Reaching M. Phimai in the Khorat district

  • Journey back to Bangkok

  •  

    Chiang Senn

    I met a number of Mussurs from east of the Me Kawng taking buffaloes to M. Kwan. The buffaloes are lent by friends of M. Lem, being too poor to buy them. I reach Ban Pawm, an old abandoned stokade, near which is a deserted temple. They were built at the same time, and were meant to indicate the position as suitable for a guard-house. Peace and war were thus established side by side, and as the object in view is accomplished they are abandone.

    From here we go over the plain of Chieng Senn, which has scarcely any trees, the few trees which do exist being very stunted and shabby. This points to great floods. As we approach the town of Chieng Senn we observe a great number of bogs. the town is surrounded by low hills, all historical, and the old Governor, who is a nervous, excitable man, and hates the second Governor, has extraordinary and very wild legends about them.

    To the south and beyond the low hills, about six miles off, is a large swamp teeming with fish; on the east is the noble Me Kawng, and as the soil is very productive, the people have little to do to gain a livelihood. It is extraordinary what an excellent farmer every man in Siam is and the cultivation of fruit-trees is a favourite employment of wealthy men, who take a delight in making the soil disclose its riches.

    Chieng Senn is remarkable for some very large and very beautiful. At one time there were hundreds of figures known as Katimapet, regarded by the Siamese as being very ancient. As they were a convenient size, they were carried off to Bangkok, where they would be better cared for. It was looked upon as desecration that they should be allowed to moulder away in ruins. There are few people beyond the officials within the city walls, the settlers, chiefly from Lampun, living in villages over the plain. As they pay no taxes, the life is free and easy, and it is very difficult to get them to work.. The following is the history of Chieng Senn given me by the son of the Governor. I have translated it quite literally:

    The History of Chieng Senn, as copied by Phya Siti-Ai-Sawn in the year (Chula -Sakarat 1218) A.D. 1857.

    The first country made was Chieng Lawah ; and Phya Anu Ruta, who made an era, came with one thousand things for amusement (Boriwan). He founded Muang Nguan Yang.

    His descendants were Lao Kop-Lao Chang.

    Lao Kao Keo Ma Muang reigned 45 years.

    Lao Tang reigned 26 years.

    Lao Kum reigned 10 years.

    Lao Leo reigned 16 years.

    Lao Kupp reigned 15 years.

    Lao Kumm reigned 15 years.

    Lao Keng reigned 26 years.

    Lao Ko reigned 20 years.

    Lao Tung reigned 17 years.

    Lao Terng reigned 20 years.

    Lao Tun reigned 16 years.

    Lao Sun reigned 21 years.

    Lao Kwaka reigned 21 years.

    Lao Kwit reigned 35 years.

    Lao Chung reigned 16 years.

    Lao Chum Palurrng reigned 11 years.

    Kun Chuenng reigned 14 years
    who was killed in battle, finishing the dynasty of nineteen kings.

    The last king was succeeded by Menta Tawk, who again was succeeded by

    Lao Ngun Luang, who reigned 22 years.

    Lao Chuenn, who reigned 10 years.

    Lao Muang, who reigned 25 years.

    Continued