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More on An Englishman's Siamese Journals:

  • Beginning of the journey from Bangkok

  • Upon reaching Kam Peng Pet

  • Chiang Mai

  • Chiang Dao

  • Chiang Senn

  • Chiang Rai, Chiang Kawng, Lamphun, Nan

  • Back to Chieng Mai

  • Leaving Chieng Mai and passing-by hilltribe villages

  • The Lamets, the Lamungs and more hilltribe villages

  • At the Luang Phrabang boundary

  • The Haws

  • Siamese fight against the Haws

  • The continuing struggle against the Haws

  • Staying in Luang Prabang

  • Leaving Luang Prabang

  • Reaching M. Phimai in the Khorat district

  • Journey back to Bangkok

  •  

    The continuing struggle against
    the Haws

    Previous

    Phya Surisak had arrived a few days before, and placed the sons of the Chao Lai, who had been sent down to receive him, in close confinement. The actions of successful generals or statesmen are never questioned, but this was a proceeding that must end in failure, and I was astonished to find a man with a great reputation for prudence, commit what was nothing short of a blunder. Phya Surisak asked my opinion of the state of affairs, and I spoke freely. Unfortunately this offended him, and I became according to him one scarcely knows what---; certainly not one working in the interests of Siam. He said he was certain that the Chao of Lai would come to Teng. I told him he would not do so for three months, and then it would be to fight him, and I asked to be allowed to remain with him. To this he objected. I then proposed to go to Lai, but he wondered what I could find to do there. Had he consented I would have asked for the realease of the sons of Lai, for matters had come to a desperate pass, and unless the Chao of Lai could be appeased, there would be no end of complications, because he was the man who above all others influenced the whole of these countries, his influence stretching over the Sipsawng Punna, and by this action he was being forced into the hands of the French. My opinion was, and is, that the Chao of Lai, acting in his capacity as the Governor of provinces under China, actively opposed the French, and that Phya Surisak thought it would involve Siam, if it was discovered that he was acting too closely with Chao Lai. It was a difficulty of the conditions of government; but without diving too deeply into the subject, it seemed to me some Siamese official should have been at Lai, and I still think that while Chao Lai and his Chinese auxiliaries settled their quarrel with the French, there was no reason for the right bank of the Nam Te being mixed up in the dispute, though it may not have been an easy task to arrange matters.

    The Chao of Lai was originally on the right bank of the Nam Te, but it was noticed that when the pigs were about to litter they swam across the river. This was taken as a sign that the Chao of Lai should follow the hogs, in which he was much encouraged by the Chinese, and he accordingly did so. Phya Surisak was infatuated with the idea that the Chao of Lai would come to Teng on account of his sons, he was also making overtures to a famous Black Flag leader called Ong Ba, who felt very much like the fly with the spider, and usually put off his coming with some excuse. At one time he alleged that he was keeping his grandmother's birthday; at another, that he was detained by worshipping the spirit of another grandmother.

    My instructions were to place myself under the orders pf Phya Surisak. My idea was that I should go to M. Lai and survey along the boundary of Siam. Phya Surisak desired that I should go to Sobp Ett and meet a section of his army there, then follow the boundary of Hua Punn Tang Ha Tang Hok , and eventually go to Nawng Kai. De Richelieu, who had been taken ill, left by boat for Luang Phrabang and Nawng Kai, and Collins accompanied me. I had gone to M. Ya, and there was laid up. On my way to Teng and at Teng, I was subject to severe attacks of colic, but at M. Ya the attack was so prolonged that I was quite exhausted, and fever came on. Night was made hideous by the howls of men of the village exorcising the evil spirits from some fever victims of the village. I fell ill on the 23rd of December , and it was not till the 10th of January I was able to move off again. I then went on to Luang Phrabang and thence to Bangkok. M. Pavie in due time reached Luang Phrabang and then moved up the Nam U, but when he got as far as the north of the Nam Nua he met the Lao in full flight from M. Teng. They were flying before the Haw brought down by the eldest son of Chao Lai, who intended to revenge the arrest of his brothers. M. Pavie returned to Luang Phrabang, which Phya Surisak had already left, taking with him whatever means of defence there was; he had already reached Paklai. The Haw followed and came down the Nam U, passed by M. Ngawi, which was supposed to be fortified, but which was perfectly harmless. At M. Ngawi, there is a small hill commanding a narrow gorge of the Nam U over a mile long. The limestone cliffs rise perpendicularly from the water, the river is very deep, and there is no perceptible current, so that when boats enter the gorge progress is very slow, and if there is anything of a wind the boats cannot go on, but rather go back, nor can they wait at the sides. It is not a sort of trap a hostile people would enter, if there was to be any active resistance from the hill, but the Haw evidently knew the men they were dealing with, and when they came to M. Ngawi they ascended the hill and rolled some splendid mountain howitzers into the river, thinking I suppose they were as useful at one place as the other. They pushed on to Luang Phrabang and took up their quarters at Wat Chieng Tawng. Before their arrival M. Pavie and the Siamese Commissioner left Luang Phrabang, the Chao Hobahat also left; he, however, was recalled by the Chief, who was determined to die in Luang Phrabang. One of the Chief's sons enrolled some twenty Burmans as a special bodyguard for his father.

    Continued