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More on An Englishman's Siamese Journals:

  • Beginning of the journey from Bangkok

  • Upon reaching Kam Peng Pet

  • Chiang Mai

  • Chiang Dao

  • Chiang Senn

  • Chiang Rai, Chiang Kawng, Lamphun, Nan

  • Back to Chieng Mai

  • Leaving Chieng Mai and passing-by hilltribe villages

  • The Lamets, the Lamungs and more hilltribe villages

  • At the Luang Phrabang boundary

  • The Haws

  • Siamese fight against the Haws

  • The continuing struggle against the Haws

  • Staying in Luang Prabang

  • Leaving Luang Prabang

  • Reaching M. Phimai in the Khorat district

  • Journey back to Bangkok

  •  

    The continuing struggle against
    the Haws

    Prince Phrachak, a brother of the King, had with him Phya Derajdecho, who had been at Woolwich, and was attached to the English Artillery. He was a scion of the best family in Siam below royalty. Phya Surisak Munntri carried with him the traditions of a great Siamese family, associated closely with the history of Siam for centuries. He was also fortunate in possissing the close friendship and confidence of the King. If these expeditions failed in the slightest detail, it was to the leaders and no one else that blame could be attached.

    Prince Phrachak went to Nawng Kai , and his active lieutenant pushed on to Tung Chieng Kumm, but he was disappointed to find that the birds had flown. He, however, burnt the nest, and placed it beyond all chance of being again used. He was then longing to join his cousin, Phya Surisak, who he heard was being actively employed in Hua Punn Tang Ha Tang Hok . Phya Surisak fixed his head-quarters at M. Sawn, where he remained during the rainy season, and went through a considerable amount of hardship. He complained chiefly of running short of quinine; he had with him a Chino-Siamese, who had taken a degree in America as doctor of medicine, and although his knowledge of English was limited, the best of doctors would not have been more acceptable. Later on the French were again on the move. The place of Dr. Neiss was taken be M. Pavie. M. Pavie, a man of about thirty-five years of age, had formerly been in the service of the Government of Siam, when he constructed the line of telegraph from Bangkok to Phratambang. He also made many journeys in the regions between Siam and Cambodia, and constructed the telegraph line through Annam to Tonquin. So enthusuastic had he become about planting telegraph poles, that it is said when asked if he was a rich man what he would do, the answer was, "Plant telegraph poles all aver the world." He was now to enter on duties other man planting telegraph poles. Had the Siamese known the part he was to play, they would have done a great deal to encourage his desire to "plant telegraph poles all over the world."

    As I was to go north and join Phya Surisak's column, it was though a favourable opportunity for me to accompany M. Pavie, and the courteous French representative, Count de Kergaradec, arranged that I should do so. I had elected to go by way of Chieng Mai, to avoid interfering with the transport forwarding requisites for the army at Luang Phrabang, this route also suited M. Pavie; but in order not to be involved in any complications that might arise in the future, I had it completely and thoroughly explained that my connection with M. Pavie was only in so far as the steam-launch could go no further, our connections would be severed. Above Paknam Po the launch towing us stuch on a sand-bank, my six-chao boat was at the same time lashed close to the launch, and the tide swinging the launch round, nearly capsized my boat. I had just time to cut the ropes. I bid adieu to M. Pavie, for according to previous agreement, I proceeded on my way and he on his.

    M. Pavie was always courteous; hs did all he could to make the journey pleasant. I was accompanied by Mr. Collins and M. du Plessis de Richelieu. My association with M. Pavie could not have led to any good in any direction, and looking back in the light of recent events, I am thankful to think that I was not associated with him.

    We hurried on to Chieng Mai, thence to Chieng Rai, by boat to Luang Phrabang, and thence to M. Teng, which place we reached on the 16th of December.

    Continued