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More on An Englishman's Siamese Journals:

  • Beginning of the journey from Bangkok

  • Upon reaching Kam Peng Pet

  • Chiang Mai

  • Chiang Dao

  • Chiang Senn

  • Chiang Rai, Chiang Kawng, Lamphun, Nan

  • Back to Chieng Mai

  • Leaving Chieng Mai and passing-by hilltribe villages

  • The Lamets, the Lamungs and more hilltribe villages

  • At the Luang Phrabang boundary

  • The Haws

  • Siamese fight against the Haws

  • The continuing struggle against the Haws

  • Staying in Luang Prabang

  • Leaving Luang Prabang

  • Reaching M. Phimai in the Khorat district

  • Journey back to Bangkok

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    Siamese fight against the Haws

    On arriving at M. Sawn, we found there five hundred militia, who had been settled there about six months, and who had consumed all the supplies, without making the slightest effort to get more. M. Sawn is important as having been more than once the scene of conflicts between the different bands of Haw robbers, who finding no opposition fell out among themselves, as is always the case. Here the black Flags of Chao Lai defeated those of Tung Chieng Kumm. There were two routes to M. Lai, and we adopted that by Sobp Ett, though it was longer, as we thought it better to find out the truth about the Haw, who it was said had established themselves there. At the same time letters were sent to Chao Lai by Phya Pichai, and the eldest son of the Chief of Luang Phrabang, to let him know that we would pay him a visit.

    Everything seemed in confusion, but of couse I could not interfere with the General's plans. However, I asked for twenty day's supplies of rice, and I saw a number of men pass before me carrying the right quantity. We started from M. Sawn for M. Kao, and the Nam Ett, which looked a stream of some proportions, invited examination, so Collins and I determined to go down on rafts. The people told us it would be impossible, but we determined to see for ourselves. The Chao Ratch Wong , the eldest son of the Chief, was amused with the notion and accompanied us, and it was well that he did so. We started all right, but we had not gone many miles before we found the river choked with rocks and we had to lift the rafts over them; as we proceeded the rocks were more difficult to pass over, still we struggled on, and at last came to a narrow gorge with a fall of thirty feet. To pass this was certainly impossible to rejoin the camp; the Chao entered into the fun with much spirit. By nightfall, foot-sore and weary, we got to a village, and the Chao soon had us comfortably lodged with a good fire.

    The next day we caught up the camp and moved on to M. Kao. Here one of the routes to M. Lai branced off, but most of the men had branced off too, I suspected. Phya Pichai connived at their running away. At M. Kao we made new rafts and went down the river to Sobp Pon; we had made one march from this when it was reported there was not a grain of rice in the camp. This was terrible, but I felt convinced it was a manoeuvre of Phya Pichai to prevent our going to Sobp Ett. The disagreeable fact remained, there was not a grain of rice, and we distributed all we had among the men. We were half-way between Sobp Ett and M. Sawn, and there was nothing for it but to return, and on the second day we met men with supplies, making it very evident that it was not the result of accident that our supplies had run short.

    I had serious talk with Phya Pichai . I asked him if we were to make an effort to reach M. Lai or not; if he thought not, we could stop at once; but if he thought it advisable to proceed, then there must be no more tomfoolery, and we must go straight on. To all of which he agreed. The season was past advancing, and the rainy season had already begun, making the marches very heavy, along paths, swarming with leeches, that had not been used for years. On account of our rice running short we had to change the whole programme, and return to M. Ngawi on the Nam to ascend it to Sobp At. Collins went up the river as far as the boundary of Luang Phrabang at M. Ahin, and it was arranged that we must meet at Luang Phrabang not later than the 1st of June . Meanwhile Phya Pichai, the Chao, and I went over a very rough path, and reached Teng pretty well played out. With the exception of Phya Pichai and myself every one of the party had fever.

    Continued