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More on An Englishman's Siamese Journals:

  • Beginning of the journey from Bangkok

  • Upon reaching Kam Peng Pet

  • Chiang Mai

  • Chiang Dao

  • Chiang Senn

  • Chiang Rai, Chiang Kawng, Lamphun, Nan

  • Back to Chieng Mai

  • Leaving Chieng Mai and passing-by hilltribe villages

  • The Lamets, the Lamungs and more hilltribe villages

  • At the Luang Phrabang boundary

  • The Haws

  • Siamese fight against the Haws

  • The continuing struggle against the Haws

  • Staying in Luang Prabang

  • Leaving Luang Prabang

  • Reaching M. Phimai in the Khorat district

  • Journey back to Bangkok

  •  

    The Haws

    Previous

    Their progress could be traced by the ashes of villages, and by temples and pagodas of which the ground had been dug up. The temples and pagodas were rifled for treasure, and so clever had the thieves become at knowing in what places to look for it, that in many of the temples (wats), only the few places where treasure was likely to be found were dug up, the rest being left strictly untouched. Most temples had the original sitting figure of Gautama, some of brick and mortar heavily gilded, others of copper, while others again were of a composition of gold and copper.

    It is the custom of Buddhists when building wats and pagodas to make offerings of jewelry and money to propitiate the deity. These offerings were placed usually under the sitting figure of Buddha, in its breast, and in the floors of the wat, exactly where the line of sight of the figure strikes the floor. The places were dug up by the unfortunate inhabitants, the Haw meanwhile standing by, sword in hand, directing the proceedings.

    Near Wieng Chan is a very interesting pagoda called Wat Luang. Religion and war are there combined; the lower part is a perfect fortress riddled with loop-holes. The Haw took possession of it without any opposition, and by means of ropes pulled off the spire in the search for treasure. It is built of blocks of laterite rudely squared. They then marched on the defenceless people of Wieng Chan and had a good time of it at the miserable natives expense. At this period there was a Siamese Commissioner, Phaya Mahamat, at Ubon. Hearing of the doings of the Haw, on his own responsibility he came up, got the people together, and fought the Haw, who were about eight hundred strong, totatlly defeating them. The last of the party took refuge in a wat, and were not long in barricading it and making a few loop-holes in the walls. They were captured and executed. This band in their lust for murder and loot had gone out of their depth, and were completely cut off from their communications.

    The Commissioner beheaded the unfortunate chief official of Wieng Chan for surrendering to the Haw. Siam awoke to the gravity of the occassion and equipped an army to drive out the Haw neck and crop. They had entrenched themselves at Tung Chieng Kumm, from whence they were quickly dislodged and nearly all slain by Phya Ratanarakun. Here Phya Rat lost a great opportunity. He had recourse to the practice of primitive times, receiving orders from the Minister of the Interior to drive away the population, thus laying the country waste and bare, and as they thought, making it difficult for the Haw to re-settle, should they return in great numbers. When the old Governor of Pichai heard the orders, he knelt at the feet of the Minister of the Interior who came as far as Paklai on the Nam Kawng, and begged that the people should not be banished; but, as in other countries that boast a superior morality, the good of a small and necessarily weak portion of a community is not considered, and they have to suffer on account of political exigencies, so here the people had to go. The nemesis that must sooner or later overtake these actions in great countries shows itself in small ones more quickly; it came on Siam. The Haw returned in great force and established control over M. Puann, denuded as it was of its population. Many of the people who escaped the exodus attached themselves to the Haw. Others, including the best of the men, took to the mountains. Nothing could induce them to leave their beautiful country, nor would they consent to acknowledge the Haw.

    Continued