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More on An Englishman's Siamese Journals:

  • Beginning of the journey from Bangkok

  • Upon reaching Kam Peng Pet

  • Chiang Mai

  • Chiang Dao

  • Chiang Senn

  • Chiang Rai, Chiang Kawng, Lamphun, Nan

  • Back to Chieng Mai

  • Leaving Chieng Mai and passing-by hilltribe villages

  • The Lamets, the Lamungs and more hilltribe villages

  • At the Luang Phrabang boundary

  • The Haws

  • Siamese fight against the Haws

  • The continuing struggle against the Haws

  • Staying in Luang Prabang

  • Leaving Luang Prabang

  • Reaching M. Phimai in the Khorat district

  • Journey back to Bangkok

  •  

    The Haws

    It was reported that the Haw were at M. Yiw, so we could not return to Bangkok, as a move in that direction would make the fellows imagine we were afraid of them, and our action would certainly provoke an attack on Luang Phrabang . We had to do the best we could, and immediately set about having a hospital constructed, as nothing could save the men from getting ill. As there was nothing special to be done during the rains, I persuaded Leonowens to return to Bangkok. Bush wished to remain, and I sent seventy soldiers down to Nawng Kai , a comparatively healthy place, to be at the disposal of Phya Rat , the General, who after the rainy season sent them back to Bangkok, although he was marching to fight and dislodge the Haw, such was his confidence in the men given to us as soldiers. Not long afterwards Bush got fever and died. He was only twenty years of age, and a young man of great promise. At this time the Governor of Pichai was very kind; as we all had fever, he made all the arrangements for the burial on the grounds of Wat Luang, and builtover the grave a brick-and-mortar tomb. Phya Pichai, in his turn, became a victim to fever, and died in Luang Phrabang, but he was one of a host of Siamese who lost their lives in their efforts to drive off the Haw and restore order in the distracted districts over which the depradations of those marauders extended. Who and what were these Haw that brought so much misery on large tracts of country, and established such a name for cruelty as to terrorize a whole population? They were, in a word, Chinese brigards. The term Haw originally meant any Chinaman who appeared from the north, and at one time they came down in great numbers, trading with Luang Phrabang, and about twenty years ago, the Chao Luang tells me, in the winter the banks of the Nam Kan were crowded with Chinese who had come down to trade. The term Haw in these parts has come to mean the brigands, and since their appearance all these countries have been thrown into confusion, and communications and trade have ceased to exist. Thier robberies have been on such an extensive acle that it is more than likely they were acting as an irregular advance of some great movement, and in fact the information I was able to pick up showed that Chao Fa Wong, as he is called, the Governor of Yiwnan, was head and centre of the scandalous movement. When the French were at war in Tonquin he sent orders to the band of ruffians wandering over the Luang Phrabang division, to attack the French,saying, if they failed to do so, it would be at their peril. Tonquin was tributary to China when the bands of Haw were let loose on it, so that whatever authority Annam held disappeared. As China was about to complete the game by changing Tonquin from a tributary to a province, France stepped in and annexed it. When the Haw were ravaging Tonquin they overflowed into the outliying provinces of Luang Phrabang , Sipsawng Chua Tai (twelve provinces of Tais or Siamese), and Hua Punntang Ha Tang Hok (the five divisions, to which a sixth was added), and also into Chieng Kwang or M. Puann; this was about the year 1870. Up to this time these provinces were fairly peaceful, and the taxes were regularly collected by an official, who is still living. The Haw started on their depredations, and the whole scene was changed. Then began a period of misery for the people of these countries, for which it will take years of good government to make amends.

    The pillaging march of the Haw was rapid and without interruption. They ravaged and destroyed the whole of Sipsawng Chua Tai, Hua Punn Tang, Ha Tang Hok, then passed over Chieng Kawng and reached Wieng Chan on the Nam Kawng, where they received a wholesome check, but not before they had effected an immense amount of mischief.

    Continued