As we are now in the Luang Phrabang territory, Nan officials
want to sent the carriers back, and as I have not the money to
pay them, I have to keep them for a cou[ple more days until I
meet Luang Pu Wat Satan, who is coming from M. Sai. After some
altercation this is agreed to. The boundary of Luang Phrabang
and Nan is along the Nam Ta from the Nam Se. It then recrosses
the Nam Ta, and follows a line which is always a cause of friction
between Nan and Luang Phrabang. Nan asserts his claim to the
Nam Ta, while Luang Phrabang, on the other hand, says that Nan's
presence in the valley of the Nam Ta is an encroachment. The
route passes over low hills, and in whatever direction one Looks
there are evidences of extensive cultivation, and the inhabitants
seem to be very numerous. The route is an excellent one; it passes
through settlements from Sipsawng Punna and Sipsawng Chu Tai.
I met numbers of people carrying salt in the form of bricks about
nine inches by three by two and a half, which appears very good,
and is brought from Baw Luang and Baw He.
On the 4th of February I made a traverse of seventeen miles.
This is an exceptional length, but I was all day at it. The
distances are very close, but on account of the jungle the readings
of the compass were necessarily numerous, taking up much time.
The path was easy. I encamped at Pa Pung, the bee-hive rock,
which is a conspicouus lime-rock, a couple of hundred feet high;
it marks the junction of the road from M. La of Sipsawng Punna.
Not far from this are Kamuks working at the lead-mines.
The first European to enter Sipsawng Punna was the late General
Mcleod, who was in Chieng Rung in 1855, having been sent there
from Maul Mein by the Indian Government to inquire into the facilities
for trade. Although it is about forty years since he was there,
the condition of the country is pretty much the same-that is,
anarchy prevails; so that the Chief last October was obliged to
fly from Chieng Hung to some place in the direction of Smo. The
chiefs were appointed by Ava and China, but since the troubles
at Mandalay, this State has had its share of confusion, though
not as much so as the other Shan states, owing to its proximity
to China. The Mekawng, as a boundary between rival claims, even
at that time caused a dispute. General Mcleod wrote: "The
Burmese next nominated Chao Thi Wan's second son, Maha Wang.
These two chiefs, namely, Maha Noi and Maha Wang, ruled at the
same time, one on the left bank and the other on the right bank
of Me Khong; but this rule was not peaceful; there was constant
warfare carried on between them; and though Maha Noi obtained
the assistance of Luang Phrabang and Muang Nan, Maha Wang proved
succesful . . . . During the hostilities above spoken of neither
the Chinese nor Burmese aided either party. On the disappearance
of Maha Noi the Chinese confirmed Maha Wang." In another
place General McLeod writes: "The Court of Ava supports Maha
Wang
's son, and the Chinese do so too."
This all shows that Ava and China are the only countries
concerned in the Sipsawng Punna. It also shows the near relations
between Chieng Tung and Chieng Hung which have been increasing
up to the present day, so that the interests of the one are involved
with those of the other. General McLeod writes: "It is not
likely that the Iso'Boa of Kieng Tong especially (whose daughter
is betrothed to Mha Wang's son), and those of Kiang Khieng and
Muang Kheng, would give their counternance to the existing states
of affairs by the presence here of their officers. These officers
attend all the deliberations which take place, and watch whatever
is passing." The present Chief of Chieng Rung is brother-in-law
of the Chief of Chieng Tung, and Chieng Tung has considerable
influence over the affairs of Sipsawng Punna.
It is not easy to ascertain what are the twelve States of
Sipsawng Punna. The tribes of Shans living in Sipsawng Punna
are known by the name of Lu, which I believe is a Burmese word
for man, and excellent fellows they are. Originally there must
have been twelve divisions, the chief of all residing at the capital,
Chieng Hung, or Aleve, on the Nam Kawng. One difficulty arises
from the frequent use of M. La, which has several intonations,
each meaning a different place.
On the Nam U, the eastern watershed of which is the boundary
between Sipsawng Punna and Sipsawng Chutai, the northern watershed
being the boundary between China and Sipsawng Punna , are U, comprising
U-Nua and U-Tai, where salt is collected, and Chieng Tong-this
last comprises the districts at the head of the Nam U, in which
are the famous tea-gardens of I-Pang and I-Neu. The gardens are
entirely under the management of Chinese, who are governed by
officials elected among themselves. The Lus have their own governors,
who hold their commissions from the Chief at Chieng Hung. On
the east of the Me Kawng there are five States--La-Nau, La-Toi,
Pong, Hing and Chieng Hong, and U. La Tai is near M. Sing, and
the district is famous for its salt wells. The best well is called
Baw He, and the salt is only about ten feet below the surface.
On the west of the Me Kawng there are seven States Hai and
Ling, Wang and Pong, Pan and Chieng Lo, Ngot and Ong, Che Mang,
Long. The capital, Chieng Hung, or Aleve, has jurisdiction east
and west of the Mekawng; the western divisions being Kon, Ham,
and Hun, the eastern divisions being Num and Wen.
I met Luang Pu Wat Satan, who brought with him money, and
enabled me to pay off the carriers from the Nan jurisdiction.
Smiles also turned up, connecting his traverse from Sai with
mine. We pushed on, and encamped at Ban Kaw Noi. The path was
an easy one, and much used, passing over hills with settlements
of Meo, Yao, and Kamuks in every direction. We met a number of
ponies and mules, laden with raw cotton, on their way to Yiwnan.
At this village there is a guard station; and whatever may be
said of the administration of Luang Phrabang, the people certainly
enjoy a sense of security foreign to them eight years ago, and
from chaos the Commissioner has established systematic order,
which is evident wherever one may go in the province of Luang
Phrabang
. It is said the people are overtaxed. I understand
there is a poll-tax of four rupees on all adult males, and no
other taxes; and while corvee labour and gambling are abolished,
the consumption of opium and spirits is being controlled.
On the 7th of March, at about 8 a.m., we went into the M.
Sai
. I took up my quarters in a wat, on a small hill, which was
cool and well protected from the glare. I received a letter from
Phya Ritisong, the Commissioner of Luang Phrabang, and the old
Chao Ratcha Wong, the eldest son of the Chief of Luang Phrabang,
whom the King has since made Chao Luang of Luang Phrabang. Both
letters were very kind, for that the Siamese can be when they
choose.
The Chao is an old friend of mine, and we travelled together
for about six months in the season of 1885-86, when energetic
measures werebeing renewed for driving the Chinese bands of robbers
from Siam. They had been driven out in 1871, and almost totally
destroyed, but returned in larger numbers, and were unfortunately
not energetically dealt with.
I had the pleasure of knowing Phya Ritisong shortly after
joining the Siamese service. He was closely connected with Phya
Surisak
in the formation and reorganization of an army. I had
met him at Luang Phrabang, and again in December of 1886 at M.
Teng
, where my opinions in matters in general being asked, and
being found in every way diametrically opposed to what was taking
place, I certainly made no friends.
I had written to the Commissioner of Luang Phrabang from
Chieng Mai, as, on account of a certain amount of friction during
my previous acquaintance, I anticipated opposition when working
in the country under his administration. The result was a most
agreeable surprise. Never since I travelled in Siam did I meet
with such excellent assistance and kindly consideration. No matter
where I went in the province of Luang Phrabang it was the same.
I was not oppose my plans, and for the first time after many
years I felt a pleasure in the work. I knew the Commissioner
belonged to the anti-foregn clique which does not believe in foreigners
being in positions of trust, but he dealt with a disagreeable
fact in an agreeable manner. The mail also came in neatly packed
by the postal authorities at Luang Phrabang.
Smiles had cleared a conspicous hill to the north and filled
in the details of work surrounding Sai; to the south-east was
another sharp peak, Dawi Hipi, overlooking the rice-plain, which
I went up and cleared. The rice-fields of M. Sai afforded accommodation
for the measurement of a base-line of about a mile in length,
and this Smiles measured very carefully. It was necessary to
connect Sai with the triangulation being carried to Luang Phrabang.
The haze was very thick, and even on favourable days a distance
of about four miles was all that one could see. The time was
occupied in cutting lines, and attempts were made for stars, but
the haze was so dense that nothing could be seen. On one night,
when the stars were twinkling feebly through the haze, I made
an attemptto take observations , but there was a perfect plaque
of insects which the men from carrying on the work. I had cleared
a small hill of jungle, and disclosed a small pagoda the existence
of which was not known.
Continued
