I have now been living in Siam for
twelve years, and during each year I have made some journey into
the interior of the country in quest of additional geographical
information respecting it. My object has sometimes been some
useful and immediate end to be attained, sometimes the journey
was made partly for the sake of acquiring a knowledge of the country,
partly in view of the future and the possible contingencies it
might bring with it. But every single journey was crowded with
interesting facts, and it became extremely difficult to know where
to begin, and to select and arrange what was likely to engage
the attention of those who feel an interest in geographical work
in the various parts of the world. Such work is more interesting
than usual in further India, which is daily increasing in importance,
though possibly not sufficiently so to awaken Englishmen to a
sense of lost trade in the past, and of dangers looming in the
near future. For it is quite certain that a daily-growing encroachment
and attack are being carried on on the flanks of the Indian Empire,
where a friendly though weak country has been ensnared in the
meshes of one of the great European Powers, that is seeking to
wrest from England by violence and material force the influence
which was being gradually won by the justice and consideration
displayed to Siam by England and Englishmen.
In order not to repeat myself,
I had better give a consecutive account of my last and longest
trip, which, if it had not been for the recent French troubles,
would have been more extended, as I meant to work round Siam as
it then was.
I was originally associated with
the Indian Survey, and this was not at all to my advantage in
taking up my duties in Siam. There were many, especially among
the Europeans, who pointed to such an association to prove their
insinuation, that I was an agent or spy of the Indian Government.
In this way I often found myself in an awkward position, which
in another country would probably have led to my assassination.
My immunity from any such peril speaks volumes in praise of the
natural friendliness and good-nature of the Siamese. I should
not refer to this personal subject if it were not necessary to
do so in order to explain how the difficulties of carrying out
my duties have increased, and all sorts of obstacles and hindrances
have dogged each step I took in Siam.
At Bangkok, the capital, I always
experienced the greatest kindness and encouragement at headquarters,
without which of course nothing could have been done. But in
the districts I have had to overcome strong prejudices. Surveying
was regarded as of no use in the administration of the country,
and as far more likely to serve the purposes of a future invader
than of the rightful owners of the country. But it is time for
such notions to come to an end, and for the work to be put on
a better footing.
We embarked on the River MeNam on the 1st of December, 1890, in a small stern-wheeled steamer belonging to Dr.Cheek, an enterprising American, who had spent many years in Siam, accompanied by a number of siamese gentlemen,
some of whom had been my companions for many years past. We sailed
first of all to Bang-Pai-In, where the Court then was, and there
took our leave of the King. On these occasions the King is always
gracious and kind, and his words are encouraging.
Bang-Pai-In consist of two islands;
on the one is the place of the King, and on the other a Buddhist
church in the Gothic style with stained windows, pews, and altar
complete. On the island now occupied by the palace there originally
stood a humble building which the late King called his "shooting-box."
He was very much attached to the spot, planted it out with mango-trees,
and escaped when he could to this peaceful spot for rest from
the cares of State.
The present King, out of reverence
for all that his father loved, adopted the place for his holiday-making.
A summer palace was run up, and European contractors made fortunes.
A taste for everything foreign came into vogue about that time,
and instead of Siamese architects, foreigners were invited to
submit their plans, and they were accepted. No graceful pagodas
are to be seen, but houses fancifully and slightly built, round
towers, chimneys of gasworks never completed, and the spire of
a Gothic church which shoots up into the sky. In the midst of
all one gem of native architecture rears its graceful head,, but
it occupies a humble position, and is quite overshadowed by its
European rivals.
Continued
