The textiles of India demonstrate skilful weaving techniques, inimitable colorful combinations and fascinating design that make them a class a part in domestic & overseas markets.
Brocade textiles
Extreme softness, vivid colors and translucent texture characterize the silk weaving of India.
Varanasi, an important silk weaving center is famous not only for its brocade or kinkab (superb weaving in gold and silver), but also for the wide variety of techniques and styles.
The brocades are distinguished by apt poetic names like chand tara (moon and star), dhupchhaon (sunshine and shade), mazchar (ripples of silver), morgalla (peacock's neck), bulbul chasm (nightingale's eyes).
Varanasi is also famous for the tanchoi saree, which resembles a fine miniature. Its origin can be traced to three Indian Parsi brothers by the name of Choi. In tanchoi sarees the designs are always floral with interspersing of birds.
Mubarakpur, is one of the important silk weaving centers in the area.
Jamdani or 'figured Muslim' traditionally woven in Dacca is now the specialty of Tanda in Faizabad. The cotton fabrics is brocaded with zari threads.
Each region has its typical technical skills and variations and the silk of Mysore, Kanchipuram, Murshidabad and Kashmir are as well known as the cotton sarees of Bengal or the cotton and silk maheshwaris of Madhya Pradesh.
The famous ikat technique is used in the Patolas of Gujarat and Orissa.
Embroidery
In the field of ornamentation, embroidery alone can match jewelry in splendour. It is an expression of emotions, rendered with patient labour, which induces grace and elegance into articles of everyday use.
Noor Jehan, the wife of the Mughal Emperor Jahangir is said to have introduced the patterned on lace is delicate and subtle. The stitch by its sheer excellence provides ornamentation. The stitch by its sheer excellence provides ornamentation to the material. The charm lies in the minuteness of the floral motifs. Stitches used are satin stitch, button hole stitch, dar stitch, knot stitch, netting and applique work which brings a charming shadow effect on lace.
Embroidery done in metal wires by kalabattu or zari as it is popularly called, is in a class by itself. The heavier and more elaborate work is called zardozi. The ground material used is heavy silk, velvet or satin. Salma sitara, gijai, badla, katori, seed pearls pearls are used for decoration. Kamdani, a lighter needlework done on lighter material, produces a lovely glittering effect, especially in design known as hazara booti, thousand dots, done with zari thread. Kamdani is used for weaving apparel such as scarf veils, caps etc.
Hand block printing
The fabric is further decorated by printing designs on it. Hand block printing in India was the chief occupation of the chhipas - a community of printers. They used metal or wooden blocks to print designs on the fabrics by hand. This technique is vogue even today.
Besides Rajasthana, Uttara Pradesh is also a veritable treasure-house of traditional designs which range from the classical booties, known as dots of Kanauj, to the universal Mango, to the famous Tree of Life.
The great color belt in India extends from the interior of Sind through the desert of Kutch, Kathiawar, Rajasthana and Gujarat. Rajasthan and Gajurat are particularly noted for its bandhini design.
Ethnic dresses
Smile, but do not laugh if you see a young French woman wearing a Kashmiri Shikara dress or Rajasthani ghagra and choli. India being a land of various communities, you can be sure of falling to temptation of buying atleast half a dozen ethnic dresses from various parts of the country. These are freely available in respective local markets.
Ideal place to shop
Varanasi, Mysore, Kashmir, Lucknow, Bihar, Rajasthan, Gujarat,Chennai, Kerala.
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